Whenever curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.
The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the owners completely shocked.
“I’m utterly astonished,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.
Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.
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